On the previous page we looked at the various ways of constructing hooklinks and now we will look at different methods used to deploy them.
Please choose a deployment method from the menu below for detailed instructions. For further information on using hooklinks and methods for carp fishing download our e-book - Click Here
| Ledger Methods | Surface Methods |
| Bolt Rig | Surface Ledger Rigs |
| Semi Fixed Rigs | Controller Floats |
| Helicopter Rigs | Other Methods |
| Running Rigs | Float Fishing |
| Shocker Rigs | More Methods |
The Bolt Rig
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Probably the easiest and most popular set-up of all is the Bolt Rig.
You will need a good sized swiveled lead weight, anything from 1.5 oz to 3 oz is ideal.
Take a 1-inch length of rubber tubing and thread it through the swivel of the lead (sinker), next thread your fishing line through this length of rubber and tie your hooklink on. Now slide the rubber tubing over the swivel to complete the set-up.
Although simple this set-up is extremely effective. When a Carp picks up the bait and moves off the heavy lead weight sinks the hook into the carp's lip causing it to 'bolt' off, dragging the set-up as it goes, hence the name 'bolt rig'.
The Semi Fixed Rig
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The semi fixed rig is similar to a bolt, or fixed rig but allows the sinking weight to break away from the rest of the rig once the fish has bolted and the hook has been set.
This set-up works well when fishing in weed or snags as the sinking weight is well away from the fish once hooked.
For this set-up you will need a good sized lead weight that is bored through the centre. Thread your fishing line through the lead weight and then thread a 1-inch of rubber tube onto the line. The rubber tube will need to be small enough to push back into the bore of the lead. Now tie on your chosen hooklink and push the rubber tube over the swivel of your hooklink and inside of the lead.
You can test this set-up by placing it on the floor tugging on the hook. Only a sharp, hard tug should pull the hooklink out of the rubber tube, freeing the lead weight.
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When fishing at long range an anti tangle set-up is required.
The helicopter rig allows your hooklink to rotate around the rest of your set-up while keeping it out of the way, avoiding tangles. The hooklink spins round like rotor blade, hence the name 'Helicopter Rig'.
To construct a helicopter rig you will need a length of fine plastic tube or rig tube around 14-inches long, 2 small rubber beads, 2 small plastic beads, a 1-inch length of rubber tube, a good sized weight 1.5 oz - 3 oz and a hooklink.
Take the 14-inch length of tube and thread a rubber bead followed by a plastic bead on to it. Next thread the hooklink swivel onto the tube followed by a plastic bead then a rubber bead.
Thread your fishing line through the long plastic tube then thread the small rubber tube on, finally tie the line to the lead weight and slide the small rubber tube over both swivels. Slide the rubber beads apart slightly to allow the hooklink to spin freely.
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The running rig set-up allows the carp to pick up the bait and move off without detecting the presence of the lead.
This set-up works well on hard fished waters where the carp have become wary. When using this set-up you need to keep a close watch for bites as there is no lead to sink the hook.
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The shocker Rig combines the properties of a running rig with those of a running rig. The set-up works by allowing the carp to swim off a short distance with your bait and then suddenly the weight sinks the hook, shocking the carp and producing a spectacular run.
See the image above to construct this rig.
For this method I use a piece of mono about 14" long. At one end I tie the hook, and to the other a small stainless steel ring.
This is then threaded to the mainline.
Next the lead is tied onto the mainline. A couple of sliding knots are tied to the mailnline, one above, and one below the hooklink.
The sliding knots are adjusted so that a floating bait i.e. bread crust will float on the surface while anchored to the bottom by the lead.
This method will not allow the floating bait to drift around, and by tightening the line, the bait can be submerged if it becomes targeted by ducks or seagulls.
Surface fishing with a controller is a good way of presenting floating baits.
A favorite method of mine for stalking carp in the summer, I find this by far the most exciting method. A carp slowly cruises past the bait and seems to vanish.
Heart pounding you watch eagerly, minutes later he's back, but appears to have not seen the bait.
As you stare at the bait you see his lips gently pluck the bait from the surface and disappear once more. Fighting the temptation to strike, you concentrate on the controller until seconds later it slowly glides away.
The thrill of this method really can not be beaten, but I do have to add that it can be a little frustrating if its windy or if the ducks are out to get you. You have been warned!
Not a method I adopt often, but it has accounted for fish when other methods have failed.
I usually fish a large waggler type float, secured with rubber float stops, and all the shot at the bottom, known as the lift method. I find this is the best method as it gives a positive indication.
The shot should be set about 4-6" from the hook. This is a good method for catching Crucian Carp, as the other setups are too heavy.